Thursday, September 11, 2008

Act 2

As we ascended up the trail we began to feel the slight affects of the altitude. Shortness of breath and a hot and heavy sun were the most apparent. However, these minor annoyances were overshadowed by the increasingly amazing views.

About 5 days in we got our first view of a snow capped peak - Annapurna 2. It was incredible. We had to wait for the clouds to dissipate, but the view was indescribable and hopefully our pictures will convey that when we get them up. I'll refrain from describing the views too much and let the coming pictures speak for themselves. Another good thing about being higher up was that the rain had stopped. After 4 days of damp clothes and shoes, it felt wonderful.

While all the days had epic views and hard grueling hikes, there is only one day worth mentioning specifically. The day we hiked up and through Thorong-La Pass was one that will forever stick out in our minds.

On usual days we have breakfast and get on the trail by 8am, but because of high winds at the Pass we had to be on the trail by 4:30am. Unlike the other days at higher altitudes it was raining, but it was different than rain, it was like we stepped out into a big, wet cloud that was surrounding the town of Phedi, which is situated at 14,445ft.

The day before the pass we had made to sure to drink lots of water, eat garlic soup (per our guide's suggestion) and take an acclimatizing day hike up 1000ft. These efforts were well worth it as we began that morning. We began hiking in the rain with flashlights that attempted to cut through the misty darkness and illuminate the way. We began huffing and puffing hard - choo-choo trains or morbidly obese shut-ins walking up stairways came to mind. For me, I started having flashbacks of my chubby 8th grade self running the mile during PE.

As we ascended about 1200ft the rain stopped and the snow started. First as hail and then as large flakes reminiscent of heavy Boston snow days. But we kept on keepin' on. This was the climax of our trip and nothing was going to stop us. The affects of the altitude got worse as we got higher; we started having more trouble breathing and began to get headaches. However, these affects are considered light as compared with the major symptoms such as vomiting blood, passing out and walking as if drunk.

When we got to the top it was glorious. Not because of the view (there was none because of the snow), nor because of the actual scenery of the pass (it was a pile of rocks and a small tea hut), but because we had made it over 4 grueling hours. We ascended 3280ft in all and felt like rock stars. What we didn't realize is that going up was the easy part.

After reaching the pass we had to descend 6000ft to the next mountain village. This descent would take place over 4 hours and as we later learned it would take place on a 7o degree slope on loose rocks and gravel. We slipped, fell, ran and tumbled downhill for over four hours before we reached our destination. Our joints ached and our minds were blown from the need to focus on every single step.

No matter. We were ecstatic. Over half the trek was over and we had survived the worst that high altitude could throw at us. We got to the tea house and slept and then slept some more.

1 comment:

pixelpulp said...

I'm glad to hear you two are as in love with Nepal as I am! I have heard from many travelers (and Nepalis) that the Annapurna Circuit is the most beautiful, so cheers to you!
In November, I'm heading back to do the Everest Base Camp trek. The weather is supposed to be mild and clear then. Just waiting on int'l flight confirmation...
Can't wait to see your photos! See you in December :)